Tasseled pieces pop up several times throughout jewelry design history. It's hard to say what inspired each one: some were based on archaeological styles, others seem like they were simply meant to express joyful movement. For use in personal adornment, the tassel dates back to ancient times and is even referenced in the Bible. We see some fabulous examples of tassel jewelry from the mid-19th century and early 20th century; some are flirty, some are fun, all are fabulous.

In the early 1970s, when news leaked Paramount Pictures was going to make The Great Gatsby into a movie, every A-list actor in Hollywood wanted the leading roles of Jay Gatsby and Daisy Buchanan. And, why not? F. Scott Fitzgerald’s masterwork has long been considered one of, if not the, great American novel. The author poetically captured the 1920s period of prosperity through his passionate characters and coined the phrase Jazz Age. Once Robert Redford and Mia Farrow were cast in the plum parts, there was no question of who would provide the jewelry. The role went to Cartier.

In the late 1960s, Cartier in New York had begun acquiring and locating its important deco pieces in American collections. Several of these Cartier art deco jewels can be seen on the leading ladies in the movie and other jewels were made by Cartier in the art deco mode for the film. Seen above and below are some very popular Cartier tassel necklaces seen on Lois Chiles who plays Jordan Baker in the movie.

A peek into the history and their journey so far

Tassels were found in Tutankhamen’s tomb. In the 14th and 15th centuries, they were made of silk, which was believed to be as expensive as gold at the time. As an indicator of opulence, the tassel naturally was used in jewelry.

One of history’s most infamous — the so-called Affair of the Diamond Necklace, the centre of a scandal in the 18th century, that discredited Marie Antoinette and the French monarchy before the French Revolution — was, in fact, an elaborate confection of diamond pendants and tassels.

The jewelry made during the 19th century encompassed Etruscan, ancient Roman, early Christian, Byzantine, and medieval styles. Artists and designers looked to various artistic periods for forms and motifs. There was also an interest in reproducing works of art from earlier epochs with historical accuracy—an approach that is particularly evident in the taste for archaeological jewelry. The firm of Castellani in Rome both pioneered and dominated the production of archaeological jewelry.

Image : A gold tassel necklace with cameo of Veronica's Veil, Firm of Castellani ca.1870
“The first two years of 1920’s marked the beginning of the Art deco era.”

Between 1920-1922 waistlines dropped to the hip and hemlines for daywear were just below the calf. Shoes became attractive. Hair got shorter and part of this change was due to the practicality required by women working in factories during World War I.
 The plunging necklines of the 1920s lent themselves well to long pendants and other long necklaces. The sautoir, a long necklace made up of numerous strands of pearls or colored beads, and ending with one or two tassels, became particularly fashionable.

The short hair styles, which exposed the ears, favored ornate earrings, often long, jeweled, and dangly. The short-sleeved or sleeveless dresses paved the way for a flood of bracelets and a variety of bracelet styles.

An Art Deco emerald, diamond, ruby and enamel shoulder brooch, Cartier, 1924. Offered in Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence on 19 June 2019 at Christie’s, New York

This ‘Indian-style brooch’ from 1924 boasts an oval cabochon emerald, pear-shaped carved, buff-top and circular cabochon emeralds, pear-shaped table-cut and circular-cut diamonds, and circular cabochon rubies.
The detachable seed pearl, onyx bead, enamel, diamond and emerald tassel was added later, having been recreated from original records by
Cartier workshops.

Coming to the high jewellery of the 21st century, the tassels adorned almost each new collection of prominent Maisons. Emerald tassels were, perhaps,  the most popular style seen at Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget in their transformable necklace.

Our obsession with tassels still lives strong through our designs. Cited below are a few of our designs that very subtly bring in the magic of tassels.

Image : The Mogul tassel necklace
In the true essence of the name, 'Mogul', the form of the silver plaque of this neckpiece is chased with detailed floral patterns. Attached to that is a floral unit worked in gold and studded with uncut diamonds. The necklace is finished with a pearl tassel and a delicate chain with pearls and gemstones interspersed.

Image : The Eve tassel necklace
 Attached to a green hued mother of pearl there is a floral unit studded with uncut diamond petals and an emerald in the centre bordered with rose-cut diamonds.. The neckpiece is finished with a pearl and onyx tassel and a delicate chain with pearls.

Image : The Haldili tassel necklace
Inspired from the ornate 'Haldili' or amulets prevalent with the Mughals, this is our minimal take on the style. The Adventurine plaque serves as a base on which is a detailed gold pattern encasing rubies and turquoise. The neckpiece is finished with a pearl tassel and a delicate chain with pearls and gemstones interspersed.

A rare combination of grey and brown iridescent pearls and mother of pearl, this statement neck piece subtly commands the attention of the artistic eye! Worked in gold and silver this piece is embellished with rose-cut diamonds and uncut diamonds. The design is strung with a silk thread and an uncut diamond studded unit on each side.
“Treasure the memories of the glamorous 20s with tassels in your everyday wardrobe.”

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/236764
https://www.trufauxjewels.com/jewelry-styles/
https://www.christies.com/features/Cartier-and-the-Indian-style-9918-7.aspx
https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2015/important-jewels-n09550/lot.6.html
https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2007/magnificent-jewels-n08371/lot.282.html
https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2010/magnificent-jewels-n08687/lot.443.html
https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2011/magnificent-jewels-n08732/lot.319.html
https://www.katerinaperez.com/articles/tassels-and-fringes#collapse-5
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/11/style/jewelry-tassels-van-cleef-and-arpels.html
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/396105729699696383/
https://alphahistory.com/frenchrevolution/affair-of-the-diamond-necklace/ 

http://www.grayanddavis.com/blog/2015/2/5/a-tale-of-tassels
https://theadventurine.com/culture/movies-tv/the-cartier-art-deco-jewelry-in-the-great-gatsby/
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/347340189983997222/
http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2018/magnificent-jewels-and-jadeite-hk0817/lot.1838.html